So Maybe I'm Just Not Ready to Really...

Beat up a perfectly good (and pristine) MT Car yet. But I did pose the question over on TrainBoard the other day. " Okay fellas, now here's a bit of a problem that has plagued me since I started modelling. What is (are) the technique(s) to take molded plastic wood like on this car And make it look well used and abused: That bunch in the NScale forum on TB are greatly knowledgable about hall things NScale. I got several good responses. Read on: PowerSteamGuy says: There is an article on how to age wood on plastic models in the February issue of RMC. It's very comprehensive and has quite a few pictures.It's well worth reading. In summary you must airbrush different color paints to acheive a well worn look. Yeah, I'd read that article. I think it's what made me ask the question. And I don't happen to own an Airbrush. There are people like me out there...Somewhere's Fotheringill Says: Or chalks. Hmmm. Now this holds some promise. Although I know next to nothing about using chalks. I bet if someone pointed me in the right direction, I could figure that one out. I asked him how he fixed the materials to the surfaces. He had posted a great example of how he did one. I actually have never used Dullcote or anything else on a weathered car. I just don't pick it up with a thumb and forefinger on its top and bottom. I never even needed a recoat and that is for a guy with lousy trackwork. The stuff doesn't seem to rub off when I do touch it. Here's Paul Downs: To add some wood grain, use coarse sand paper or the edge of a file. I like to paint the entire deck with an aged wood color, like an ash gray, and then dry brush the finish color over the aged "wood". Then you could add additional weathering, using paint or chalk. John Moore goes even further. John Moore: I use a razor saw blade drug across the plastic to give plastic the grainage, Usually a fine tooth razor saw but a coarser tooth one will give some deeper grainage to the plastic. Then there is the old ship modelers technique after that. Thin coats of green, black, and woodtan, also maybe some grey, letting each dry thoroughly. Sand some off before each color application and you end up with a seasoned peice of wood. Lightly sand the final coat of color to let the others show through some here and there. Same thing can be done if one is good at dry brushing colors. Finally weather it using anything from the dregs in the paint brush rinse jar to weathering materials to fill in the grainage created with the razor saw. I would suggest practicing on a useless piece of plastic first before tackling that nice flat. Now I really respect what this Master Modeller has to say, you should see his work on TB. I read ALL his stuff. Then r_l_straw weighed in: Russell Straw Instead of chalk, I use MAC eye shadow makeup. It comes in some rusty, earthy and smokey colors and does not have the sparkle mica dust so is very flat looking. It does not seem to rub off as easy as chalk with my fat fingers. (I like to fondle my cars) It is more expensive than chalk however. I have found that when you spray Dullcote over any dry weathering it soaks up the pigment and causes the effect to almost go away. I have also found that over the years Dullcote can yellow. I suppose that is not bad for some weathering. Now I've seen Russ' stuff Live and in Person. His NTRAK modules have won awards. Listen...to da man. PowerSteamGuy came back with detail and a link: PSG: You can also try the Bragdon Enterprises weathering system. This material bonds nicely to any surface after it's applied and rubbed on. Bragdon Enterprises weathering system And Bragdon Enterprises stuff looks great. Next time I'm in a Hobby Shop I'll check them out. But I just can not make myself do that to that car! YET!